Sunrise Point

Bryce Canyon – Sunrise Pt.

This is my favorite sunrise shot of my 11-day photo safari through Colorado, Arizona and Utah.  It will always remind me of the miserable night I spent in Bryce Canyon NP’s campground: elevation over 8,000′, temperature dropping into the low 30′s, sleeping in my car, and waking up to frost on the windshield.  Even though I had a good sleeping bag, I was so cold that at one point I was digging into my emergency road kit looking for the candles.   Then the scene from “Planes, Trains and Automobiles” where their car catches on fire flashed through my mind, so I scratched that idea.

Sunrise at Fairyland Pt.

I could have started the car to warm up, but I didn’t want the neighboring campers to think I was a wimp.  At 5:00 AM I threw in the towel, got dressed, scraped the frost off the windshield and took off.  Sunrise was at 6:15 anyway, giving me plenty of time to get a badly-needed cup of coffee.  Guess what? the park lodge didn’t open for breakfast until 7:00, so I drove into town.   Hmmm, nothing open there either, even the truck stop didn’t open until 6:30.  I shivered into the motel attached to the truck stop hoping to find a coffee vending machine.  Nope, but I did find a bored night clerk that needed someone to talk to; she went back in the kitchen and got me a steaming hot cup of black coffee.  What a life saver!

Hoodoo

Bryce Canyon is known for its hoodoos; pinnacles of odd-shaped rock left standing by the forces of erosion.  This particular one is at the Aqua Canyon lookout.  Hmmm, sort of reminds me of the aforementioned motel night clerk.

Bryce Amphitheater

The amphitheater is probably the most iconic scene of Bryce Canyon, incredibly large and visible from several vantage points that are miles apart along the scenic drive through the park.  As the sun rises in the morning and falls in the late afternoon, the shadows create forever-changing colors and scenes.

Amphitheater from Bryce Point

Taken earlier in the day while I was checking out the 37 mile round trip scenic drive.

Rainbow Point

Rainbow Point is the highest point in the park, elev.  9,115′.  You can see people standing on the observation point in the upper left of the photo.   To get to the observation point, you have to follow a path about 100 yards that winds along the top of a narrow spit of land that falls off on both sides.  No fences or hand rails; it looks about 6 inches wide when you’re up there.  I hiked up there, but didn’t want to attempt the path without a parachute.  The wind was blowing so hard from where I took this picture that it was difficult to hold the camera steady, so staggering along the narrow path to the observation point was definitely out of the question.  Besides, I had a freezing cold night in the car ahead of me and I sure didn’t want to miss that.

Rainbow Point viewed safely

The highest point in this photo is also Rainbow Point, taken from Black Birch Canyon lookout, a safe vantage point over a mile away.  If you zoom into the point, you can still see people on the observation point.

Lone Tree – Sunset Point

I can’t get over these trees that grow out of the rocks and survive on about 10″ of rainfall per year.

Thought for the Day:  Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.            John Wayne (1907 -1979)

National Pride

Stars & Stripes

Do you remember the first time you looked at our nation’s flag and felt pride; you know, got goose bumps, lost yourself in the moment, sort of like a hallelujah moment?  Maybe I should ask, “Have you ever felt that way about the American flag?”   I’m sure you would remember it if you did.  I remember when it first happened to me.

Considering how marinated in patriotism I was as a kid, I’m sort of ashamed to admit how old I was when the moment struck me.   Reciting the Pledge of Allegiance every morning in grade school, at every cub scout and boy scout get-together, earning three merit badges for citizenship, an Eagle Scout, visiting cemeteries on Memorial Day, Fourth of July fireworks and all of that, you’d think something would have sunk in long before I was in my mid-twenties.

I was 24, married, had a 3-month old son, and a good job when I won the Army’s draft lottery in the late 60′s.  My birthday was drawn out 6th and three weeks later I had my draft notice, one of the worst days of my life.  Uncle Sam trained me to be a soils analyst and sent me to Viet Nam  as part of an Army Engineer’s Group, but at least I had avoided the infantry.  In typical government fashion, in the middle of a war zone the U.S. was building a beautiful asphalt road that was being demolished quicker than it could be built, most of the damage coming from the ungrateful ARVN army using it for their tracked vehicles (tanks and armored personnel carriers).  My job was to monitor samples taken from various asphalt plants scattered throughout the middle section of the country.

My first venture outside the base was a mixed bag of emotions; other than the “thrill” of seeing something new, which I could have done without, all of my emotions were on the negative side of the ledger: fear, anxiety, doubt, dread, etc.  More questions than answers, that’s for sure.  Where? When? Who? Why? and more What-Ifs? than the law allowed.

This first trip was a short one, thankfully, but still took most of the day.  Eventually, the longer trips would require my staying over night at a fire base camp, but not this time.  One step at a time; I was already a bundle of nerves and my sphincter muscle was tied in a knot.  When our little 3/4 ton pick-up rounded the last bend, I could see the base and a wave of relief came over me.  As we got closer I could see the American Flag flying over the entrance gate.  That was my Ah-Ha moment; it struck me like a two-by-four upside the head.  Everything made sense all of a sudden. ” one nation … under God … with liberty and justice for all …”  That  flag meant American soil, I was home, baby!

We were stopped at the gate to show our credentials … ID’s, orders, passwords, Hawaiian good-luck signs, rabbit’s feet, secret decoder rings, etc.  But I didn’t mind, I was never so glad to see an MP in my life; I wanted to give him a big hug … but restrained myself.  I tilted my head out the window so I could see Old Glory at the top of the flag pole. She was waving gently in the breeze, proud, undaunted, not a care in the world, like she was waving to ME,  ”Come on in, son, you’re safe now.”

Geez, that was a great feeling!   Happy Memorial Day, and thanks for reading.

Thought for the Day:  Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe to assure the survival and success of liberty.  John F. Kennedy (1917 – 1963)

Angel’s Landing

Angel’s Landing

After seeing Hoover Dam and the new bypass bridge, I was back on the road by noon.  I skirted Las Vegas and headed northeast on I-15 to St. George, Utah.  Just north of St. George I left the interstate and headed east on UT-9; I arrived at Springdale, Utah at the mouth of Zion Canyon and entrance to Zion National Park around 3:00 PM.  The elevation of Springdale is a little over 3,000 feet, but the sheer cliffs on both sides of the canyon rise to over 7,000 feet.

Court of the Patriarchs

The area was settled by the Mormons in the mid-1800′s, which heavily influenced the naming of many of the natural points of interest: e.g. Court of the Patriarchs, The Great White Throne, Angel’s Landing, The Temple of Sinawava, etc.  The names of three peaks in this picture are (from l. to r.) Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.

Zion – Mount Carmel Highway

This is UT-9, a scenic route winding through southern part of Zion Canyon.  About three miles up the road is a narrow mile-long tunnel through the mountain.  No hikers or cyclists (Geez, I’ve never seen so many cyclists — thought I was in Portland, OR) are allowed in the tunnel, so I gave two hikers a lift through the tunnel so they could hike over the mountain back to their car.

Rising Moon over Zion

This was the view from my campsite, pretty decent.  It didn’t take me long to pitch my tent, I slept in the car.

Great White Throne

I was really disgusted with myself for leaving my wide-angle lens in the car when I set out for the morning.  If I ever needed a wide angle lens, it was in Zion NP.  The canyon is so narrow and the peaks so high, I couldn’t get everything in the shot — just too close to everything.  Consequently, I’m not too wild about any of the shots I took during my brief stay.

Secured Rock

Zion NP is another government facility that takes every precaution to keep their assets from walking off.

Regular Customer

This turkey tom is a daily visitor at the coffee shop near the Zion Canyon Lodge.  He pecks on the door demanding service, working himself into a frenzy when his demands aren’t met.  During his tirade, paying customers on the outside give him a wide berth, postponing their morning coffee, while the customers inside get quite a show.

The Narrows

Starting at the Temple of Sinawava, there is a very easy 1.1 mile paved trail that follows the Virgin River up the narrow canyon.  The canyon narrows considerably as you head up stream.

The Narrows Trailhead

I really don’t like this shot, a little over saturated, looks like it came out of a coloring book.  Anyway, at the end of the paved path the trail to the iconic Narrows begins, the slot canyon that is barely wide enough for one person and gets sunlight only during the middle of the day.  The trail begins on the rocks after fording the Virgin River, is approx. 5 miles one way to reach the Narrows, and much of the trail is in the river.  I didn’t take this one.

Canyon Overlook Trail

I limited my excitement to the half-mile Canyon Overlook Trail; short, but with several places to stop and ask myself, “Hmmm, was this built by the lowest bidder?”  The trail starts at the east end to the Mount Carmel tunnel and ends at an overlook that gives a wide vista of the canyon and the entrance to the tunnel on the west end.

View from Canyon Overlook Trail

In the bottom half of the picture, you can see UT-9 winding its way up the mountain to the west end of the tunnel.

I saw a lot in less than 24 hours.   Next stop, Bryce Canyon NP.

Thought for the Day:  I changed my iPod’s name to “Titanic”; it’s syncing now.

Hoover Dam

Hoover Dam, 2012

After two nights at the Grand Canyon Village, I drove 200 miles west to Hoover Dam.  I’ve got a zillion more pictures of Grand Canyon, which I’ll get to eventually, but I want to keep this photo safari moving.

Hoover Dam – Up Close

The Hoover Dam, dedicated in 1935, is quite a spectacle itself, but I’ve been there before and even took the tour inside the dam.  (Very interesting, BTW)  This photo was taken with my new wide-angle lens, while standing on the dam itself … er, the sidewalk on top of the dam.  No dare devil blood in this kid.

Mike O’Callaghan – Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge

What I really wanted to see on this trip was the Hoover Dam bypass, officially named the Mike O’Callaghan – Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge.  FYI, Mike O’Callaghan was a former Nevada Governor and Pat Tillman is the former NFL player who quit pro football to join the army after 9/11 and was killed in Afghanistan.  It is the largest concrete-arch bridge in the Western Hemisphere, 900′ above the Colorado River that separates Arizona from Nevada.

View from the Dam

This is the view from the dam sidewalk, or should I say the sidewalk on top of the dam.  Hmm, not a bad picture, even if I do say so myself.   This view minimizes the maze of electrical transmission wires that look like cobwebs in most of the photos.

Men’s Restroom Entrance

There are public restrooms located on the top of the dam.  For being built in the middle of the Great Depression, no expense was spared on elegant trimmings.

Bridge Deck

Crossing the bridge in my car was a non-event.  I was well passed the middle of the bridge before I even realized I was on it.  There are no trusses or cables to indicate that you are on a bridge.  Tall concrete barriers on both sides eliminate any “rubber necking” by the motorists.   What a bummer.

Pedestrian Walk Way

Once I stepped onto the pedestrian walkway that takes you across the bridge, my opinion of the concrete barriers quickly changed.   At 900′ above the water, the wind really howls as it squeezes through the narrow canyon; even with the 4-5′ concrete windbreak, there was no way to keep a hat on.  The bridge is solid as the rock its built upon — absolutely no movement, not even any vibration from heavy trucks that rumble by on the other side of the concrete barrier.  Except for the wind, it wasn’t scary at all.

Information Stations – Wind Breaks

These circular enclosures provide relief from the wind along the short hike from the parking lot up to the pedestrian walkway on the bridge deck.  There were 3-4 of them, and they all had educational and informational posters to read while catching your breath.  Another shot from my wide-angle — probably a focal length of 11 mm, so wide I have to be careful to keep my feet out of the shot.

Simple and Sturdy

I love the simple design of this bridge.

Thought for the Day:  I told my dentist my teeth are going yellow.  He told me to wear a brown necktie.  Rodney Dangerfield

Mule Riders

Corral at Bright Angel Trail Head

A childhood fantasy of mine was to ride a donkey down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, camp overnight, and ride out of the canyon the next day.  At the time, I thought a donkey was the same as a mule.  Oh well.  Now that I was actually on the rim of the Grand Canyon with the mules, as only a spectator, I wanted to feel the experience through the camera.

Saddled, Bridled and Ready To Go

Mules are large sturdy animals with more horse sense than horses.

Fancy Tail

Some of the mules have fancy tails or brightly colored bridles.

Last Minute Snack

It was cold and windy up on the rim that morning, about 40 degrees and strong winds.  The mule rides go on, rain or shine.   One of the handlers gave each mule a carrot or two before they left.

Trail Boss Prepares His Mule

The trail bosses obviously loved their job; they took whatever time it took to make sure each and every mule was fit and ready for the arduous task ahead.  It looked as though  each trail boss had their own special bond with each mule.

Trail Bossette

This boss(ette) was very talkative and friendly.  She told me that mules are used instead of horses because mules are more analytical.   She said, “Horses just react to a strange situation, get spooked and take off — not what you want when the only escape is over the side.  Mules will think before they act.”   The mules are at least 8 years old before they start hauling people/cargo down the steep canyon trail.  She said mules don’t fully develop their muscle mass until age 6.

Trail Master

The Trail Master (head trail boss) gave a very stern lecture to all the tenderfeet mule riders who made reservations a year in advance for this opportunity.

Trail Master – 2

This is the closest thing to a smile I saw during his one-hour lecture.

Practice

The trail boss gave some practical instruction before they mounted their mules.  This trail boss would bring up the rear so he could keep an eye on all the tenderfeet ahead of him.

Weathered and Wise

This trail boss would lead the tenderfeet “caravan”.

Mule Riders on Bright Angel Trail

This shot is taken about 100′ below the rim.  It’s about 9:00 AM and considerably warmer out of the wind.  The tenderfeet will want to shed their yellow ponchos before too long.

Bright Angel Trail – Grand Canyon

The mule riders are passing through a tunnel on the Bright Angel Trail.  Notice the hikers hugging the wall as the mules pass.   Mules have the right of way.  Hikers are instructed to stop and stand on the inside of the trail;  the sure-footed mules always pass the hikers on the outside of the trail — much to the chagrin of the riders who have an elevated and moving view of the sharp drop off.

Rest Stop

At the bottom of the photo, the mule riders are barely visible.  The mules stop for a rest break every 20-30 minutes.  The riders, however, must remain in the saddle.  At this point, the riders are approximately 300′ below the rim — only 1700′ more in vertical descent to reach their destination.

Making Progress

Without the pink arrow, it would be difficult to notice the mule riders in this photo.  It is now about 10:30 AM; I don’t know how far below the rim they are in this photo, but the riders will be in their saddles for another hour or so before they reach their first rest stop.

What an adventure!

Thought for the Day:  The wisest men follow their own direction.                       Euripides (484 BC -406 BC)

Hopi Point

Hopi Point, looking east

When I left Great Sand Dunes NP, I headed west on US 160.  After a brief stop at Four Corners, I proceeded on to the Grand Canyon.  The first night I was there I went to Hopi Point which is one of the premier sites for watching the sun go down.  There must have been well over 200 people there, all bundled up against the gusting wind and dropping thermometer.

This shot was taken about 30 minutes before sunset, looking east.  Then I turned my camera around and waited for the sun to fall over the horizon.

Hopi Point, sunset

This shot is looking west …  Duh, the sun is setting.  You can see the Colorado River in the lower right of the photo, over 2000 feet below the rim.

I’m still working through the 350 shots I took during the two nights I was at the Grand Canyon, but expect to cover the mule rides in my next blog.  See you in a couple days, thanks for reading my blog.

Thought for the Day:  Art is born of the observation and investigation of nature.                                            Cicero  (106-43 BC)

Desert Kites

kite flyer

The first stop on my photo safari was the Great Sand Dunes NP near Alamosa, CO.  Its a very interesting place, giant sand dunes in the middle of nowhere nestled up against the Rocky Mountains.

I was pleased to see people walking/hiking/playing on the dunes to provide some scale to the photos.  I especially liked the guy trying to fly his kite in the strong winds that whip around the dunes.  The picture was taken from the bank of Medano Creek, about 50′ wide and ankle deep.  From this point, its about a half mile walk across the flat stretch of sand to the base of the dunes.  The vertical ascent to the top of the dunes is approximately 800 feet, but you have to go down through many valleys before you reach the top–not a difficult climb, but very grueling.

From the top of the dunes you can see another 5-6 miles of dunes stretching into the back country.  Overall, the dunes cover approximately 30 square miles.  For other photos of the Great Sand Dunes, please visit my website by clicking here.  Thanks for reading my blog.

Thought for the Day:  I bought a cactus; a week later, it died.  And I got depressed, because I thought, Damn, I am less nurturing than a desert.   Demetri Martin